Thursday, January 20, 2005
5:35:00 AM EST
Greetings from the Philippines
Maayong aga from the Philippines!
It was 30+ grueling hours of flying time and a few hours of roaming airports in Atlanta, Minneapolis, and Tokyo, but I made it here. And so fulfills a promise I made a year ago.
Eleven years since my last visit, the wheels of progress have slowly turned in the Philippines. No one hassled me at customs, where I was readying myself to fight challenges to my paperwork ("Ay, walang pera!" I was ready to shout at the officer.) But no, they didn't even look... just took my paperwork and moved me on. That's what I call monumental progress.
Malls are sprouting in what were quieter suburbs of Manila. Went to one in Marilao, Bulacan, only a few minutes from my cousin's house in Meycauayan. Before, we had to take an hour trip into Manila. Airports are new and monuments to economic stability and growth-- the towering glass hall named Centennial Terminal cries out, "Mabuhay!" and the jets of Philippine Air Lines-PAL- (a.k.a. Planes Always Late) were new, spacious, and efficient. I came to Davao, and was yet welcomed by another new airport and inside, my uncle who used "connections" to get into a usually tight airport. (A bomb planted by terrorists tore through the old airport in the same city.)
Now, I've managed to find a computer terminal in a crowded internet cafe in Kidapawan, North Cotabato on the island of Mindanao. I just spent four days in Roxas, my mom's hometown. We roamed the countryside and visited the family farm... which was a sign of progress and distress. The old family home is fast falling apart, a hollow shell now that once was the heart of the barrio (village). No one sleeps on the second floor, which was once a cool reprieve from hot days; the wood floors are rotting fast. The majestic mango trees surrounding it still shelter the home from the heat, but everyone proclaims the grand days of large, juicy mangoes have withered away, since my Lola (grandmother) died. Only the family graveyard nearby seems to be growing.
On the opposite end, though, progress is evident in other parts of the family farm. A GIANT rice mill is being built on my mom's land by my cousins-- probably the largest of its kind all over. It's a multi-thousand peso project that will generate good income.
We had a picnic yesterday at the old house, and I paid my respects to my grandparents and other departed relatives. We had a great lunch, and many relatives and tenants joined us to celebrate.
Afterwards, we spent the afternoon with a great friend who is the former mayor of Roxas. We drove out to his farm, a nursery of exotic fruits he's cultivating for export. He's collected varieties of durian, coconut, lanzones, rambutan, and mango from across Asia and cross-pollinating them with native varieties.
He is also an avid fan of American history and politics-- that's why we became good friends quickly nearly 12 years ago. He loves to talk politics and I share with him ideas about public policy and philosophies. I was told to "consider" applying for dual Filipino-American citizenship... and to run for senator here and he'd run my campaign. Ha! I said I'd never do it, but I might consider being his Chief of Staff when he runs and gets elected.
I had my first taste of durian, which is a fruit not for the faint of heart. I've always refused in the past to eat fruit that smells like my dirty gym shoes (yes, dirty gym shoes, or even a bathroom.) but I held my nose and tried it. It was pretty good, but a little slimy in the mouth. :>)
We spent today at the Skyline Resort, a project of my great friend and the former mayor of Roxas. The resort is nestled peacefully in the lush tropical green mountains and its pools and waterfalls are fed by natural springs. All our relatives and friends turned out (government offices and schools were closed because of a regional observance of a Muslim holiday) which made the day so much more special. After a day in the pool, I realized just how much I need to get back into shape.
Speaking of getting back into shape.... I have eaten so much in the last couple of weeks, though it's been healthy. I've had more than my generous share of fresh fish and vegetables. Well, I mentioned the fruit-- THE FRUIT is magnificent! Durian, mango, mangosteen, pineapple, lanzones... yummy! Much of it came from relatives who live near the Dole plantation here in Mindanao. (Next time you buy Dole or Del Monte pineapple, note that it's most likely from here!)Makadto ako sa Iloilo at Antique sa lunes. In other words....by next Monday, I'll be island hopping again to Iloilo and then to Antique (pron: Ahn-tee-kay) province, Dad's homeland.
I'm studying and practicing the language a lot more while I'm here, especially Illongo. There's a saying here that Illongos (my tribe) are very "tikalon," meaning we're very arrogant people. By nature, we have to return to the main Illongo city, Iloilo, every year to "renew our license" to be "tikalon." Learning the language in Mindanao is my final exam; I'll obtain my license on Monday.
I'll be there a week and head back to Manila. If I have time, my cousins will take me to the Luneta (large park in Manila) and Corregidor (World War II island fortress).
Well, it's time to give this keyboard a break. Hope all of you are well. Please pray for my safe travels. I miss you all and hope to see you when I get back in February!
Peace,
Ace